Words: Tatjana Anic
For this first proper post, Ana and I wanted to dedicate to my hometown Hamburg. As I mentioned in my introduction, it’s a city I learned to love in a different way after being away from it for a while.
This year the city’s atmosphere has changed, as every big city has. A global pandemic is something no one saw coming, especially not the influence it would have on the people and therefore on a city. We are having a second lockdown right now with restaurants, shops and cultural institutions closed for several weeks. When it happened for the first time in the spring people started to understand that those kind of things should not be taken for granted. That is probably one main lesson that Covid taught us, to appreciate everything a little bit more and enjoy the diversity of the offerings we get within a city.
“The feeling of community has never been more visible than this year. ”
I noticed that locals tried to support their favorite places when they needed it the most. Everyone seemed to work together, support each other, and come up with creative ideas of how to deal with new restrictions. Starting from take-away concepts that restaurant owners came up with overnight or small shops that created an online platform of their products to various online performances of exhibits, theaters, discussions, readings, etc.
During the worst times, it was wonderful to see that many people took the chance to make the best out of it and at the same time seeing so many customers and locals who were willing to accept those new concepts and support where and how they could. The feeling of community has never been more visible than this year. Another noticeable change in the city this year is the lack of tourists. Even though Hamburg is usually not on the top list when travellers think of Germany, the increase in popularity during the past few years was nevertheless noticeable. For a few months it seemed as if the locals had their city for themselves.
We dared to take strolls in areas that are usually crowded with tourists and that we happily avoid under normal circumstances, for example the harbor promenade around Landungsbrücken, ferry rides along the Elbe or the now missing queues entering the free platform of the city’s new concert hall called Elbphilharmonie.
Unfortunately, all the big events, concerts, festivals have been cancelled this year, such as the popular music and art festival called Dockville. The fascination of dancing with a crowd full of strangers into warm summer nights seems pretty surreal at the moment. Instead we all got to know our own neighborhoods pretty well.
“Going to the farmers markets, the same bakery, flower and coffee shop, getting to know the people behind the counter made me lose the anonymity and identify myself with this part of the city. ”
Usually meeting at a small neighborhood café or wine bar, as Kropka or at hip restaurants as Mexikostrasse (by the way, in my opinion the best place in the city for tacos) would be a typical summer evening, whereas nowadays people avoid being inside and meet in small groups for a neighborhood walk, explore the nearby city parks and evermore the nature on the outskirts of the city.
Aperitivo at Kropka
Tacos at Mexicostrasse
Besides baking bread, a walk in the woodsand, preferably, mushroom picking seemed to be the most desirable weekend adventure. I’ve been visiting the Heide south of Hamburg a few times this year. It’s a large heathland area spread across the region around Lüneburg. The unique landscape is most beautiful in August when it’s in full bloom and the endless fields turn pink for a few weeks.
As a local, I would say, I feel safest in those neighborhoods I know the best. Living in Eimsbüttel for five years has always felt as a small town within a neighborhood.
Going to the farmers markets, the same bakery, flower and coffee shop, getting to know the people behind the counter made me lose the anonymity and identify myself with this part of the city.
It’s a friendly and fun neighborhood with the most beautiful cafés, concept stores, wine bars and bookstores. Nevertheless, it’s also fun to explore other areas, wander around new and unknown streets and every now and then, getting lost in our own city. My favorite neighborhoods for strolling and wandering are Schanze, St. Pauli and Ottensen.
Since I am a morning person and therefore an early riser, I love watching the sunrise while the city is still asleep. A perfect weekend morning (pre-Covid) would be to wake up early, ride my bike to Park Fiction – a small park in the alternative neighborhood St.Pauli overlooking the harbor and the river Elbe – watch the sun slowly appear behind the Elbphilharmonie with its sparkling roof and the sky changing its color.
“Those early mornings filled with calmness and in solitude help me regain energy and feel inspired. ”
This is the most peaceful and gorgeous moment in the city for me. I usually have my camera or notebook with me for spontaneous photographing or sketching. While the city awakes slowly, I would take a bike ride along the Elbe, passing Landungsbrücken and Baumwall, the Speicherstadt, which is the largest warehouse district in the world as well as an UNESCO side, already visible in the background.
My first stop would be Nordcoast, a café and coffee roastery located on the historical street called Deichstraße, which is built right by the canal. They offer the greatest coffee, which is freshly roasted in Hamburg but additionally have amazing breakfast. My order would be a flat white with an energy acai bowl. If someone prefers a savory breakfast, the poached egg on avocado and bread is always a great alternative.
They also serve the best waffles and amazing filter coffees as well.
After a slow and calm breakfast with a canal view on the top floor of the café I would continue to one of my favorite bookstores called Sautter & Lackmann. I could stroll through their shelves for hours. The store is specialized in architecture / art / design books which I can never have enough of. They also give the best recommendations when looking for gifts since they are really passionate about this field. Before returning home and starting the day, I would pick up a little mix of fresh flowers for the weekend. Those early mornings filled with calmness and in solitude help me regain energy and feel inspired.
This winter everything has been a bit different from the usual excitement as the days became shorter and darker.
Every year the Christmas markets open up all over the city around the first Advent. It’s something everybody looks forward to and that is when the Christmas spirit starts to evolve. The few weeks before the holidays, every social event is scheduled around meeting friends for a Glühwein, which is a mulled wine with spices, at one of the public markets. We would eat food that you cannot get elsewhere or find the first crafty gifts. None of this was happening this year.
The few Christmas decorations in the city center indicate the season but seeing the big square in front of the townhouse empty during December simply doesn’t feel right since this is usually the most known and iconic Christmas market of the city.
In general, the fussiness of the pre-holiday chaos was missing this year; no last-minute gift shopping, no after work drinks at the Christmas markets, no gathering friends around one table for annual Christmas dinners before everybody leaves to spend the holidays with their families. All of those things make us realize how much we cherish those traditions and how much they are missed when it’s not available.
To look on the bright side, Germans like to use the word Vorfreude – it describes a joyful anticipation. So, for all the things we had to miss this year, we will await them even more aware and happier next year.
